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Dave
Mar 15, 2016

One of the theories I’ve heard on why weasels (and other wild predators) kill more than they can take is that during the act of killing, their brains are hardwired to respond to motion. A bird flaps and tries to get away and the weasel responds. As long as there’s a stimulus, there’s a response. If true, this could mean that building partitions into a henhouse where the birds could get out of the line of sight could help limit the mass carnage. Of course you don’t want to lose any birds and the ideal solution is to keep the coop weasel-proof, but simple partitions might be a good idea as a fallback plan.

From "Weasel Evel Knievels" »

Elise Tillinghast
Mar 15, 2016

Hi Gloria, thanks for your note. I didn’t get into this topic because it required more space than word limits permitted, but here’s a quick explanation. Weasels not only risk starvation on an ongoing basis, they also have tiny stomachs - they can only consume a little at a time. So their instinct is to kill what they can now, and cache the extra food (For example, a nest of young mice). If you think about it, this kill now, eat later approach isn’t so different from a person stocking up at the grocery store.

The trouble comes when weasels encounter the unnatural situation of a poultry yard - a greater concentration of prey than they would ever normally encounter and that prey doesn’t even run away. Their predatory instinct is triggered, and continues to be triggered. Worse, there’s not much opportunity to cache any of the extra food.

From "Weasel Evel Knievels" »

Gloria Moses
Mar 14, 2016

This article, while interesting, does not even mention the destruction one weasel can do in a henhouse or a duckhouse. One even killed a full grown goose. They kill more than they can take. They are beautiful, but not around my birds.

From "Weasel Evel Knievels" »

Dave
Mar 10, 2016

The short answer to your questions is yes they all run at (roughly) the same time, and no, don’t pull them yet. There’s no harm in leaving them tapped and you might get lucky and have another run when the weather cooperates.

From "When Tapping, Don't Disregard Red Maple" »

Doug Baston
Mar 09, 2016

I got some on February 1st and for a few days after (earliest ever), then it shut down for a couple of weeks, came back strong, but I think we are done now. Hell, it’s tee shirt weather. In a generation we will be collecting palm oil.

From "Dispatch from the Sugarwoods, 2016 - Part 2" »

Jeanette
Mar 08, 2016

Do all Red Maples produce sap at the same time?  We have some producing sap and others are not.  Should we pull the taps from the ones that are not producing or do we give them more time?

From "When Tapping, Don't Disregard Red Maple" »

Rebecca
Mar 07, 2016

I was able to identify a young southern sugar maple, or Florida maple in my yard today (early March) because it still has papery bleached leaves firmly clinging on. I don’t remember maples in my yard ever doing this. Right now all the other maples are bare. My hunch is that this particular maple is growing near a beautiful beech and is jealous!

Thank you for the great article and comments.

From "Why Do Some Leaves Persist On Beech and Oak Trees Well Into Winter?" »

dave
Mar 07, 2016

The sap should all taste watery and nearly flavorless. Maple sap tends to average around 2 percent sugar, so it’s 98 percent water. The depth of the hole should not affect flavor.

From "When Tapping, Don't Disregard Red Maple" »

Christine
Mar 05, 2016

We have a six foot stockade fence around our back yard. In the fall around dinner time, my husband was out cooking on the grill, I was pulling weeds out of the garden, as I stood up I saw a huge plume of a skunk tail about 2 feet from where he was cooking. I screamed “Skunk”. He very slowly backed away, the skunk never sprayed. Now that winter is here, we have been smelling skunk scent almost every morning from our basement bulkhead -  frequently the smell resonates into our kitchen upstairs. We do not see any large holes around the bulked. We do have a shed, near the fence, but do not smell anything in that area. Looking for advice. Thanks

From "The Winter Life of the Skunk" »

Jon Harris
Mar 04, 2016

Thanks for this article, which explains one of the subtle pleasures of a winter woodland trail.

From "In Cold, Wet Woods, Needle Ice Sprouts" »

Keith
Mar 04, 2016

Great to get your report. The gap between your 1st report and this one had me concerned. Now I see that you have been busy. I look forward to your reports and your style of writing about the sugarbush. Keep it going! Keith

From "Dispatch from the Sugarwoods, 2016 - Part 2" »

Kathy
Mar 03, 2016

Hi, this is our first time tapping , we couldn’t tell if a couple of the trees we tapped were sugar or what, but the raw sap from a couple trees have a barky taste while the rest have really no taste. Did we drill the tap holes too deep or do different tree sap taste different? I hope I’m making sense.

From "When Tapping, Don't Disregard Red Maple" »

Widow Marsden
Mar 02, 2016

Beautiful. And what a year. So lucky you are to live where what you did can be done, and to have land. Such good fortune amidst the sadness

With love, appreciation, & respect,

rr aka two

From "Home Burial - Back to the Land, Six Feet Under" »

Lee Webster
Mar 02, 2016

For information on home burials in New Hampshire, go to http://www.nhfuneral.org/Home-Burial.html. Thanks for the lovely story.

From "Home Burial - Back to the Land, Six Feet Under" »

Michelle
Mar 01, 2016

I have a butternut tree on my rental property in East Barre area. It produced a ton of nuts this past fall and I’ve collected them in an overflowing milk crate. I’m thinking of trying to start a few but not sure what to do with the rest ... If anyone wants some contact me asap.

From "Their Goal: Saving the Butternut Tree" »

Ross Morgan
Feb 28, 2016

Ian in California,

I use a real thinned down mix of about 50-50 for the first coat of oil to turpentine; let it soak into the surfaces of wood in the axe eye and wedge.  Subsequent coats are thinned much less, maybe 5 to20 percent thinner, or none at all on a hot day. 

With less thinning, let the oil stay on the wood, but wipe off excess after about 20 minutes.  This way you get good drying and the finish is hard, not “gummy”. 

Many coats are good, then as needed over the years.

Ross Morgan

From "Make Your Own Axe Handle" »

Shawn
Feb 27, 2016

oh my god and please people, stop hitting your mauls/axes with sledge hammers to drive them through. THIS IS DANGEROUS!

The steel of both axes/mauls and hammers is hard and brittle,  striking the two together can easily send shards flying that could injure you or people around you.

If you need to strike the back of your axe or maul it should always be done using a softer material than the steel of the axe. Preferably wood. This is called “batoning” and is usually done with a heavy stick or wooden mallet. Safety first! Then teamwork!

From "Maul vs. Axe" »

Shawn
Feb 27, 2016

I’d like to just point out that you shouldn’t be splitting wood on the ground, anyway. It should be on a stump or another log so that when your axe or maul goes through the piece you’re splitting, it buries itself in the end-grain of the one underneath instead of in the dirt where rocks can bash up the bit.

Even a blunt maul can take on a gnarly, deformed edge with too much misuse, and a messed up bit can lead to blade deflection and injury.

From "Maul vs. Axe" »

Susan
Feb 25, 2016

25 Feb - 8, instead of 2 mourning doves at feeder today - so thanks for the educational material!

From "The Secret Life of the Mourning Dove" »

Mary Sides
Feb 24, 2016

Has anyone heard the expression “Bee hopper” in reference to a person who finds hives?

From "Bee Lining: The Oldtimers' Way to Find Wild Beehives" »