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When Tapping, Don’t Disregard Red Maple

At a recent meeting of maple producers in New England, I asked the question, “How many people would never tap a red maple?” Half the audience raised their hands. There were a number of reasons given, including fear of low sugar content or bad-tasting syrup; it’s been theorized that since red maple buds swell earlier than sugar maple, the syrup might taste buddy. And yet, when I’ve talked to people who actually tap red maples, it seems that many of these fears are unfounded. Add to this the fact that the existing red maple resource in the Northeast is huge and expanding – Vermont has 40 million live red maples at least 10 inches in diameter; Maine, Pennsylvania, and New York have far greater numbers – and it seems that many sugarmakers would be wise to give red maple a second look.

There are several reasons why red maple is flourishing throughout the region. Red maple grows fast and will usually outstrip the growth of sugar maple and beech in abandoned farm fields. Human-caused events – the introduction of chestnut and elm blight, high grading, and fire suppression (fire is more damaging to red maple than most other hardwoods) – have all caused red maple to become more competitive in our forests. Red maple is more resistant to ozone and acid rain, and in some areas where air pollution contributes to mortality of mature sugar maple, the canopy is being replaced by red maple. Although red maple is susceptible to several unsightly leaf diseases, insect defoliation is usually less severe in red maple than in sugar maple. Forest tent caterpillars avoid it altogether. Keeping red maples in a sugarbush adds to its diversity, and a diverse sugarbush will experience less insect and disease damage than a stand of pure sugar maple.

Red maple and sugar maple differ in several other respects. Sugar maple is usually confined to moist but well-drained soils, while red maple will develop a root system suitable for almost any site – from dry ridges to swamps and bogs. Sugar maples may live to 300 years or more, while red maple rarely exceeds 150 years. Red maple flowers almost every year and the seeds fall in the late spring; sugar maple flowers less frequently, and the ripe seeds drop in the fall. Red maple stumps often sprout to yield a clump of poles from the same base; often these have defects and are not destined to become full-sized trees. Large wounds, as well as branch stubs, are more readily subject to decay in red maple than in sugar maple. Sugarmakers who tap red maple report that tap holes usually close rapidly, but spouts driven hard can cause a considerable split in the cambium above and below the hole. Red maple branches break more readily from wind and ice.

So what about red maple as a tree for sap collection? I spoke to several people whose sugarbushes consist of a large proportion of this species. Some described their syrup flavor as “more maple,” some as “more caramel;” all claimed that their customers were very happy with it. The differences in flavor seem to echo the vast differences also found among sugar maple syrups from different soils and regions. Haven King, who buys syrup from sugarmakers all over the Northeastern U.S. and Canada for Maple Grove Farms of Vermont, told me that some of the best-tasting syrup he buys comes from sugarbushes that are mostly red maple.

Sugarmakers had varying descriptions of the niter produced from boiling red maple sap, with the yearly range from white to black and from light to heavy – just as is typical with sugar maple. No one described problems with buddy sap; apparently most red maples shut down sap production as the buds begin to open, or the sap turns buddy at about the same time as that of sugar maple. Sugar content was typically lower, but only by a couple tenths of a degree brix. Some stands of red maple ran earlier than sugar maple stands, some did not. Syrup made from a predominance of red maple is often a bit darker than sugar maple syrup, but not dramatically so. Sugarmakers who collect with buckets describe some red maples with very shaggy bark as poor sap trees but said that other trees were often very high yielding. Trees growing in a swampy area often have large heartwood centers, necessitating shallow tapholes.

Many maple producers are poised to expand their operations. With the vast amount of untapped red maple in northeastern forests, it makes sense to take advantage of this species. While tapping a stand that is largely red maple may scare some people, there is no reason to avoid these trees when they are growing in your sugarbush.

Discussion *

Feb 12, 2019

It’s hard to say without seeing them, Joe. If the reds are north exposure and the sugars are south exposure, it could be as simple as microclimate. Double check your holes on the reds and be sure you didn’t drill into dead wood. When you say they’re smaller than the sugar maples but big enough to tap, what do you mean exactly? What’s the diameter of the respective species?

Dave Mance
Feb 08, 2019

(Posted for Joe:)

I just tapped red and sugar maple trees at the same time using the same type of tap kit.  They are at different locations.  The sugar maples have produced a few gallons of sap in less than a week yet the red maples have produced nothing.  This is with a few days of early sugaring.  The red maples have less sunlight than the sugar maples and are smaller.  The red maples are big enough to tap.  Why haven’t they produced sap?

Amy Peberdy
Jul 12, 2017

Nope. A Mance from southwestern Vermont. The magazine office is in Corinth, so I work up here regularly.

Dave
Jul 08, 2017

Dave in Corinth, Are you a Porter?

Rob Hutchins
Mar 10, 2017

I’ve never tapped any trees before, but thought I’d try it with my 9th graders. We knew from the fall colors that there were maples on the property and we looked for alternating branches and found 9 big trees. We put two taps in each, and two days later, we had about 12 gallons of sap. I later found out through some knowledgeable people and a little more research, that all our trees were red maple. We finished our first batch on Tuesday and had it on some ice cream with the class yesterday. It is so yummy, not too sweet, but has a really nice caramel/butterscotch flavor. Perfect for ice cream.

Kelly
Feb 24, 2017

Anytime it gets above 50 the microbial loads in your tapholes and lines multiply, which will eventually cause your taphole to slime over and stop running. This doesn’t happen right away, though. My advice would be to wait and see what happens. It’s early enough that if you get good sap weather again (ie freezing temps at night), the holes will likely start running again. Generally speaking, it’s not good practice to redrill your holes. Not only does it stress the tree, but once the weather has been sufficiently warm to slime up a taphole, the tree’s metabolism will have changed in a way that’s not conducive to making good syrup. You might get another run or two out of the new hole, but the syrup you make will likely be off-flavored and not worth your time or the added tree stress.

Dave
Feb 23, 2017

Enjoyed a great tapping week in early Feb. 2017.
Then temps hit 50!s/60’s, including warm nights.
Tap holes appear dry.
Predictions now are for good hi/low temps for at least a week.
Can I use same holes?
Or should I make new tap holes?

Kar
Jan 18, 2017

I don’t know, Troy, because “wet” and “dry” are both such subjective terms. It’s probably a safe bet that the more vigorous looking tree or trees will produce the most sap. Look especially at the quality of the tree’s crown—the more expansive the better. Of course the only way to be sure is to tap both sites and compare. Let us know what you find.

Dave
Jan 16, 2017

I have red maples in both wet areas of my property and in dry. Will I get more sap from the wet area maples because of the excess moisture?

Troy
Apr 18, 2016

Jake,

The sap run is predicated on a freeze/thaw cycle. So, it needs to freeze at night and then get warm during the day. You’ll get maybe four weeks out of your tapholes if you’re lucky—after that the tree will stop running. So look for a window in early spring where you’ll have a block of that weather. When you see the weather forecast saying a week of highs in the 40s or 50s and lows in the 20s, tap then.

Dave

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