Coppicing for Firewood

Two 15-year-old coppiced gray birches and one 18-year-old coppiced American beech add up to a face-cord on the author's porch.

Of all the silvicultural techniques available to forest owners, perhaps no method is more underused than coppicing. Coppicing is a reproduction method where a tree is cut back periodically to stimulate new growth through dormant buds on the stump, or stool. In turn, these buds develop into sprouts or shoots, capable of growing firewood in just a few years, instead of the decades it takes to grow a tree from a seed.

Coppicing dates back to the Neolithic period when coppice wood was used for a variety of purposes, ranging from bean poles and laths to firewood and fence posts. In fact, the economic importance of coppice firewood was so significant that Henry VIII mandated that fences be built to protect coppice forests throughout England.

The most obvious advantage of coppicing is rapid growth, thanks to the already established rootstock. Larger stumps will produce more sprouts, so choose trees that are at least four inches in diameter. We’re fortunate in the northeast that our most desirable firewood species (maple, beech, birch, oak, cherry, and hophornbeam) coppice relatively easily, using a five-step system:

1. While coppicing can be done any time of the year, best results are achieved from late fall to early spring. Select trees with poor form that have little value as sawlogs or other forest products.

2. Cut low stumps, which will encourage the establishment of new shoots at or below ground level. This promotes the development of roots and increases the tree’s stability. The ideal coppice stool should only be two to three inches above the ground, and should slope slightly to shed water. If you’re harvesting a previously coppiced stump, make the same angled cut just above the point at which the stool splits into multiple stems.

3. If you live in an area that is prone to animal browse, I recommend placing branches around the stool as a deterrent. Another approach is to favor species that are less palatable to browsers. Beech and birch, for example, are less attractive to animals than maple or oak.

4. By late spring, you’ll begin to see numerous sprouts emerge from the stump, each with a J-shaped leader. After leaf fall, clip off the smaller, less vigorous sprouts. I usually leave four to six vigorous sprouts per stool.

5. The amount of time it takes to produce your first firewood crop will vary depending on species, site, stool size, and desired firewood diameter. I tend to harvest most of my coppice firewood on an eight- to twelve-year cycle. From my more productive trees, this will yield firewood that’s three to four inches in diameter – small enough to avoid splitting.

Because coppiced trees are kept in a juvenile stage, they will never die of old age. It is also worth noting that the benefits of coppice systems extend beyond simply providing firewood. The dense cluster of shoots around a stool provides important habitat for birds and small mammals. As for other uses, consider basket splints, stakes, bentwood furniture, and tool handles.

Happy coppicing!

Brett R. McLeod is an Associate Professor of Forestry & Natural Resources at Paul Smith’s College.

Photo Gallery

  1. Z Gates → in RI
    Sep 29, 2015

    If you’re worried about animals browsing, why not make your cuts @ 6’ above ground? As long as you’ve got a good root system, it should be stable—I’m judging by the centuries-old stave orchards in western europe who use this technique.

  2. Michael Sparks → in Tennessee
    Dec 13, 2016

    Is Beech a good species to coppice?  How fast is the regrowth to get more firewood? I have quite a bit of Beech on our property.

  3. dave → in Corinth, VT
    Dec 13, 2016

    I don’t have first-hand experience coppicing beech specifically for firewood, Michael, but in my forestry endeavors over the years I’ve noticed that beech is a prolific stump sprouter. The wood is also high-quality BTU wise. This leads me to believe it would be an excellent species to coppice.

  4. Charles → in Vermont
    Jul 24, 2018

    Hello, I am thinking of buying a house in northern Vermont that is 2500 sq ft, well insulated, and designed as a passive solar house. As such, how many cords of wood do you think it would take to heat this each winter? How many acres of mixed hardwoods would it take do meet this need if coppicing is used?  Please note I don’t want to clear it the land, I would rather have the copice system blend into the woodlands and look natural. Thank you.

  5. Dave Mance → in Shaftsbury, VT
    Jul 26, 2018

    I can only speculate, Charles—too many unknowns, the biggest being just how efficient the house really is. But if the house really is tight, you might get away with 3 cords of wood a year? (This guess is based on the idea that most people I know who heat with a woodstove burn about 6 cords in a year, and maybe your house is 50 percent more efficient.) Based on the author’s math that three, 15-year-old coppiced trees make a face cord, you can probably assume 9 make a cord. That would be 27 trees a year.  Other readers might have a more sophisticated guess.

Join the discussion

To ensure a respectful dialogue, please refrain from posting content that is unlawful, harassing, discriminatory, libelous, obscene, or inflammatory. Northern Woodlands assumes no responsibility or liability arising from forum postings and reserves the right to edit all postings. Thanks for joining the discussion.

Please help us reduce spam by spelling out the answer to this math question
five plus five adds up to (3 characters required)