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Managing Your Woodpile

It can be hard to summon the appropriate motivation to cut firewood in early July. In light of this, I keep a newspaper article taped to the refrigerator that highlights the billion-dollar quarterly profits some oil companies are reaping; the fact that the Northeastern states burn about 5.5 billion gallons of fuel oil a year; that at $4.50 a gallon this sucks close to $20 billion out of our economy and sends it to Saudi Arabia, Nigeria, Venezuela. This line of thinking keeps the woodpile growing and the furnace’s fuel-oil gauge pegged at three quarters of a tank.

I’ve been working in a patch of woods above our main sugarbush recently, cutting and splitting hard and soft maple, ash, oak, hornbeam, and white birch. The birch and red maple are destined for the evaporator, the ash and hard maple for the woodstove at home. The hornbeam rounds and oak will need another full year to season, and then they too will become home wood.

Managing a wood pile is a lot like what I imagine managing a baseball team must be like, as each species seems to have its own niche. There are stats to consider. In the case of the species I’m cutting, the hornbeam has the highest slugging percentage (24.6 million BTUs per cord), but it takes a long time to cure and it’s miserable to split. Stocking your lineup with straight hornbeam would be like using a power hitter in every slot in the lineup. And so I save my hornbeam for the clean-up spot. It’s a small enough tree that I can use most of it in the round, thus limiting the amount I have to split. I give the rounds a full year and a half to cure, and load the wood pile in such a way that in mid-January I’ll have power when I need it.

Ash has considerably less punch than hornbeam (21 million BTUs per cord), but it’s a fabulous lead-off hitter. Clear ash is a dream to split, and because of some physiological inner working that I only half understand, it dries faster than other hardwoods. Cut and split your ash in early summer and you’ll have a roaring fire come fall. Clear red oak might be even easier to split than ash, but the stuff is so dense and water logged that unless it’s a year old, don’t even try burning it.

As for hard maple, I view this species as the captain of the team; probably my shortstop. The one who hits 30 homeruns, bats .330, and steals 30 bases. It has almost a million more BTUs in it than ash, and it still splits fairly easily, having none of hornbeam’s prickly personality. (Speaking of prickly, don’t even get me started on black locust, the Barry Bonds of firewood. It leads the league in BTUs with just around 25 million per cord, but I’ve yet to talk to anyone who wants it on their team.)

The red maple and white birch are sugaring wood for a reason. They don’t have the BTUs to cut it as big league players (both hover around 18.7), but they’re perfectly suited for the evaporator and compliment the softwood we burn nicely. With sugaring, you want flash heat that you can control, not a big bed of longburning coals. At least that’s how this sugarmaker looks at it. Plus, we have a lot of red maple and white birch and we have to do something with it.

I know for a fact that I’m not the only firewood geek out there, so I’d be interested in hearing your take. Do my observations match up to your experiences? How about those of you who have lineups with other players in it? How’s beech to process? I hear it can be miserable, but I don’t split much of it so I don’t really know. What about white oak and shagbark hickory? Both of these species have enviable numbers and could potentially be the best of the best. Feel free to chime in too on the bad players. I cut an elm the other day for kicks, fully aware of its poor BTU content, and then had to recoil when the splitting maul bounced back at my face. It was like I hit the thing with the wrong end of the maul. What worthless firewood.

Anyhow, share your thoughts if you have some.

Discussion *

Jul 10, 2011

I am a great fan of baseball and firewood, so your anology works good for me. I agree with all you say about the different hardwoods for wood burning. On my lot I am fortunate to have lot’s of beech. Although thinning large beech can be challenging with it’s knarly, sprawling, twisting branches, cutting it allows me to save the much more valuable hard maple, yellow birch and ash. Once back at the landing spliting beech is not an issue with my wood splitter. The key with the other lesser firewoods is when you burn them. I to stack my woodpiles so that when January comes I’m in to the best. I always process a few popal blowdowns if there still solid enough to burn as the October nights get chilly. It takes the chill off but doesn’t drive you out sweltering. And finally, please if your going to cut a solid elm tree, don’t waste it in the woodstove, I’d love to use it in my woodshop

Stanley Gore
Jul 05, 2011

I agree w. Mark Hutchins, the smaller, dead, bark falling off, elm is my emergency wood in the spring. Burns fine, keeps me warm, just wish the smoke smelled better.

Beech is great, not as dirty as some of the “rough” barked trees. Can be a real pain to split, especially the butt end. I’ve made a few 150 lb blocks of kindling before I desingate it to the bonfire pile.

Black locust burns well, nice heat, the coals tends to pop when you open the stove door to reload the burn chamber. Sparks and embers flying out the door tend to get your heart going.

Ash and soft maple make up my “spring and fall” wood.

I do have a tough time burning bitternut hickory. Burns too slow in cold weather to keep the house warm without opening the draft up enough to burn up the grate. So my son gets all of it from my release and fence row cutting.

John Edelstein
Jul 03, 2011

I’m surprised that you did not reference the well known ‘Firewood poem”, author unknown, to me at least:
There is an old poem on firewood which to some extent holds true.

Beechwood fires are bright and clear
If the logs are kept a year,
Chestnut’s only good they say,
If for logs ‘tis laid away.
Make a fire of Elder tree,
Death within your house will be;
But ash new or ash old,
Is fit for a queen with crown of gold.

Birch and fir logs burn too fast
Blaze up bright and do not last,
it is by the Irish said
Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread.
Elm wood burns like churchyard mould,
E’en the very flames are cold
But Ash green or Ash brown
Is fit for a queen with golden crown.

Poplar gives a bitter smoke,
Fills your eyes and makes you choke,
Apple wood will scent your room
Pear wood smells like flowers in bloom
Oaken logs, if dry and old
keep away the winter’s cold
But Ash wet or Ash dry
a king shall warm his slippers by.

Joyce McKeeman
Jul 03, 2011

A firewood poem says this about elm;

Elmwood burns like churchyard mould,
E’en the very flame is cold.

David Wing
Jul 03, 2011

We buy our firewood cut and split, so have no idea what we’re burning most of the time, although we can recognize a few pieces. We also use a wood gasification boiler to heat a 5,000-gallon water storage tank which then heats the house via radiant heating, so we need a different sort of burn than a wood stove. We can also burn softwood.

What we’ve learned is: Every load into the boiler has a different dryness quotient and BTU!

Carolyn Haley
Jul 02, 2011

The absolute worst to split is tupelo (black gum) - run the other way if someone offers it to you. The guy who sold me my my first cordwood in New England must have recognized his chance to hide some in the load. In an attempt to split one, I buried a wedge in one end, then buried my other wedge in the opposite end without even the starting crack of a split.  Had to throw the whole log in my fireplace to get my wedges back.

That must be a reason one often sees ancient tupelos in red maple swamps, with no other trees that size - once they’re too large for rounds, forget it!

Garry Plunkett
Jul 02, 2011

I burn most any hardwood and cut it in winter without sweat running in my eyes, mosquitos, black flied and deer flies.  On 60+ acres there is always plenty of freshly dead standing trees.  I skid logs over the snow and cut them up in my back yard.  The snow gets too deep for my tractor.  My land is wet so there is not much time to work without leaving ruts.

Years ago I burned a lot of elm.  The smoke stinks and the grain is like rope.  I bought a splitter along with three other guys, two have since died.
 
I like white oak best about when the bark starts to loosten.  Now there is plenty of ash.  I recently used a lot of poplar that was cut to clear for a wind tower.  It made good firewood the first year but rots quickly.  I don’t have any locust or hard maple in my Rotterdam woodlot but some in Purling.  I have burned quite a bit of sasafrass. I also burn apple and even storm damaged wheeping willow from my front yard but most of that went into my 100 yard range bullet stop.

If you look at heat value per pound as opposed to per cord you will see a somewhat different picture.  I do most of my splitting with a maul.  Anything that is too knarly to split with a second or third whack gets thrown aside for the splitter which I use a couple times a year.

Tracy Lamanec
Jul 02, 2011

I would add only one thing to the discussion.  I’m a strong advocate of drying wood for 2 years (maybe 1 and 1/2 with some species).  All the problems of creasote, chimney fires, and chimney cleaning costs are pretty much eliminated that way, plus I believe that you retain more BTU’s that way.  Wood that is not completely dry uses some of it’s own BTU’s to cook off the remaining moisture.  In my experience one year old wood just doesn’t perform as well.

Kevin Beattie
Jul 01, 2011

I pretty much agree with most of comments.  Beech is wonderful firewood, although some of it can be tough to split.  With a wood splitter, it makes no difference.  Equal to rock maple I would think.  While green elm is everything you said, if it’s standing dead for a few years before it’s cut, you’ll find it’s a different wood indeed.  I once heated my house for the better part of a winter with a 4’ diameter elm that had been standing dead for a number of years.  I split all of it by hand and almost all it split well, some as good as ash.  My vote for worthless firewood is basswood.  You can sink a maul 1/2 way up the head without even starting a crack.  And it’s lighter than pine or poplar, I’m sure.

Mark Hutchins
Jul 01, 2011

Could you confirm that we are sending fuel oil to “Venezuela”?
I thought it was just the opposite: Chavez sent oil to the U.S. free of charge for use in low income housing units.  At least I saw an ad on tv about it. If it’s true, it certainly wasn’t widely publicized.
thanks.  nice article.

gail
Jul 01, 2011

Believe it or not, I don’t mind a bit of poplar in my stovewood mix. It dries easily, splits nicely, stacks beautifully, and ignites quickly. It ain’t warm, but it’s bright, and I’ve got it by the wagonload.

Kathleen Osgood
Jul 01, 2011

I absolutely agree about the Elm - I had the same thing happen to me…I wondered if there was something wrong with the maul, but unfortunately, there was not.  Didn’t seem worth the effort.

Lissa Stark
Jul 01, 2011

I cut hornbeam rounds—up to 4 or 5 inches across, and sometimes even more—in June, then burn them when the cold weather comes.  They would probably be better if I let them sit a year (I can’t imagine they need a whole 1 1/2), but they do fine as I use them.  Last winter I used almost nothing but.

Syd Lea

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