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Butternut, Juglans cinerea

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Butternut, Juglans cinerea. Illustration by Adelaide Tyrol

Healthy butternut trees are now so rare that, before the image of this tree in its full glory fades, let’s bring the butternut tree of 40 years ago to mind. Back then it was a robust member of the tree community, found on rich, moist loams, on limey, rocky soils, and in the dooryards of a high percentage of old farms. In short, butternut had its pick of the best sites. Planted by both people and squirrels, it was a distinctive and lovely tree in all these settings.

Butternuts do not do at all well growing in shade. They only have leaves at the sunny tips of their branches; the rest of the tree is too shady. The bare interior and the thin, high canopy give the tree a light, airy appearance. Leafing out late and dropping their leaves early, they provide shade only when needed, a beautiful dappled shade – a perfect yard tree for this climate.

Butternut grows rapidly, to a moderate height of around 60 feet. Typically, a tree lives for only about 75 years. Its branches spread widely when grown in the open. In the forest, butternuts are sometimes tall and narrow crowned, just like other trees. But healthy butternuts release a toxic chemical compound into the soil called juglone, which can deter competing trees. In such cases, even in the forest, a butternut will spread its branches as widely as it wants, so wide, in fact, that its thin shade permits a circular grassy patch to grow in the middle of the woods. In autumn, you might find one of these grassy patches by following the sound of red squirrel gibberish.

The twigs are stout, built to hold unusually large compound leaves that have as many as 17 leaflets. If you come upon a fallen branch, a leaf scar provides a useful feature for winter tree ID: it resembles a monkey’s face, complete with furry eyebrows. In winter, the next year’s terminal buds are large and fuzzy; the lateral ones are smaller and rounder. The ashy gray bark on older trees is distinctive in winter, too. It has a braided look, with the braids looking as though they have been ironed flat.

Male and female flowers appear on the same tree in early summer. The male flowers are catkins, borne in the axils of the previous year’s growth. Female flowers are on a short spike near the end of the twigs. Soon, nutlets can be seen in small bunches. When they mature, the nuts become hard and dense and are enclosed in a sticky husk. Bunches of nuts often remain on the tree after the leaves have dropped in autumn.

The nuts were an important food for Native Americans; archaeologists have often found charred butternut shells in prehistoric hearths. Colonists made pickles from the soft, unripe, green nuts and considered them a delicious accompaniment to meat. Natives taught early colonists how to make brown and yellow dye from the husks.

The sapwood of butternut is light while the heartwood is a deep brown. Sometimes furniture makers and cabinet makers use just the heartwood; other times the contrast of the two colors can be striking. Although the wood is softer than black walnut, both are easily worked, never crack or warp, and take finishes well. A satiny radiance emanates from butternut wood, and it is a favorite of woodcarvers. Butternut grows farther east and north than black walnut and is sometimes called white walnut because of its light-colored sapwood.

Two deficiencies should be noted. First, butternut’s autumn color is drab, with more brown than yellow in its shriveled leaves. Second, as firewood, it has about as many BTUs per cord as white pine or aspen and, unlike those species, is reluctant to burn.

But now butternut canker has swept across the tree’s range, infecting nearly every specimen. It’s a true horror story, and it’s hard not to feel as morose as the trees look. Butternut trees don’t die willingly: hopeful-looking tufts of leaves burst from the trunk after the branches have expired; later the leafless, gaunt, peeling, rot-resistant skeletons stand accusingly for years.

Since no one knows where this disease came from or how it arrived here, it’s hard to know how it could have been prevented. Still, this scourge is a reminder that we need to take good care of trees whenever we can.

Discussion *

Aug 29, 2018

Keep planting seeds, especially from trees that show no sighs of disease.
I’m a landscape/forester and encourage people to plant Butternuts when ever they can. They are a fast grower and some die young, the disease rarely kills them, but simply shortens their lifespan. We (and wildlife) can still harvest the nuts a good many years before they do die.
It’s a beautiful tree even if short lived… KEEP PLANTING THEM!

ken rimmer
Aug 15, 2017

I have about 8 butternut trees. The oldest is about 43 yrs. 
My father used to make chicken wired frames and hang the nuts in the carport. Squirrels couldn’t get at them. The nuts were used in maple sugar. So far no disease.

Chris Barber
Jan 09, 2015

Drying butternut nuts is quite easy…put them in a container that has good air flow.  I use old plastic milk crates, the kind used to deliver milk bottles.  No need to take the outer sticky husk off especially if it has already started to turn black.  You can inadvertently stain your hands a lovely nicotine brown by handling them at this stage without neoprene gloves and it is impossible to remove. Shake the container of nuts every day or so for the first few weeks to ensure they aren’t sticking together and developing mold.  If you see small white worms falling out of the container don’t be alarmed.  It’s the walnut maggot and has no effect on the soundness of the nut.  It is strictly in the soft husk and encourages the husk to soften and break down.  If you have chickens they love these delicacies otherwise leave them for the chickadees and sparrows.  The nuts take about 3 months to dry in the shell and can be stored in a relatively cool area (basement or garage) in the crates almost indefinitely.  Cracking them requires good aim and a number of blows with a hammer to get the shell to crack but the nutmeats are buttery and delicious and well worth the effort.  A vice can also be used if you’re no good with a hammer.  The nutmeats store well in jars in the fridge…eat them straight out of the jar or in recipes you can scarf off the internet.

Rosemary Fleguel
Jul 15, 2014

I have two butternut trees. I have been waiting 18-19 years to receive fruit from them. Always said before I die I will see them produce nuts for me. I just laid my husband to rest this summer. Looked up at the tree and what do I see but its given me a nut for the first time. I am faced with the joy of getting the trees to produce nuts which makes me happy! But I know there is a process to drying them. Would love so input on how to dry them and cure them now. Can you help?

Kat
Jun 22, 2014

We have 2 mature butternut trees in our backyard. Love the shade.

Lisa Salts-Martin
Feb 07, 2011

Leslie,
I wish I could offer some encouragement. You seem to be ahead of me on this subject—I didn’t know there was any treatment for the disease, even one that costs a fortune.
I will try to check that out and if I learn anything helpful, I’ll let you know.
I’m sorry about your tree. It sounds like an unusually large specimen.
Virginia Barlow

Virginia Barlow
Feb 05, 2011

We have a lovely Butternut tree that towers over our house. Trunk is approximately 5-6 ft diameter. It is diseased but since there is no cure and the treatment costs a fortune, we have not treated it.  It drops it’s leaves mid summer through fall. Not so much that you notice it on the tree but it litters the yard and gardens all summer.
I am searching for some treatment or care that I can give it to help stay as pretty as it is as long as I can. I would appreciate input ....
Leslie

Leslie Heen

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